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WHAT'S DOING IN; Istanbul
By DOUGLAS FRANTZ
Published: June 9, 2002

Shopping in Istanbul is entertaining enough to qualify as sightseeing, particularly at the Grand Bazaar (or Covered Market) on Carsikapi Caddesi in the Beyazit district. The 450-year-old collection of about 4,000 shops winds through a vast network of covered streets and buildings. Open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily except Sunday, the bazaar is a cornucopia of wares, from mass-produced carpets and fake designer shirts to fine jewelry and antiques. By bargaining, expect to pay about two-thirds the asking price for most goods.

The best shops don't hawk their wares. At Eski Arts and Antiques, at Cevahir Bedestan, 7 Serifaga Street, Irfan Karatas sells antique jewelry and religious icons without moving from his cozy store. Stunningly detailed antique Russian icons can cost as little as $500 or as much as $5,000.

Nearby, at 93-95 Takkeciler Street, Dogan Bilgili sits patiently in his shop, where a lightweight, butter-soft leather coat for a man or woman is about $225.

Carpets are popular purchases, but buy with care. For people with expertise and money, or just money, a handful of shops sell antique rugs starting at $1,000 and ranging to the stratosphere. One is Naturel, on Evkaf Street at Ekmel Han No. 1, near the Grand Bazaar, (90-212) 516-7601, fax (90-212) 516-7603. It specializes in old carpets from Turkey and the Caucasus, some of museum-quality and priced accordingly.

Where to Stay

The downturn in tourism is keeping most hotel rates reasonable, and a number of high-end places have weekend and other specials.

The Conrad Istanbul, Barbaros Boulevard, Yildiz Caddesi, Besiktas, (800) 774-1500, (90-212) 227-3000, fax (90-212) 259-6667, www.conrad.com, was the first of the city's modern luxury hotels and many of its 592 rooms have wonderful Bosporus views. After June 15, a standard double will begin at $130, including tax.

In the heart of Sultanahmet is the 14-room Seven Hills Hotel, 8/A Tevkifhane Street, (90-212) 516-9497, fax (90-212) 517-1085, and at www .hotelsevenhills.com. Rooms have hardwood floors and lovely rugs from a shop below, owned by the same family. The rooftop restaurant has great views. A standard double is $140, with tax and breakfast.

Budget: The Side Hotel and Pension, 20 Utangac Street, (90-212) 517-2282, fax (90-212) 517-6590, Web site www.sidehotel.com, is across from the Seven Hills, with 43 tidy rooms and a friendly atmosphere. A double is $50, in the pension $35, both with breakfast and tax. Pension rooms are smaller and don't have phones; some share a bath.

An interesting alternative for groups of three or four is Galata Residence, Felek Street, (90-212) 252-6062, fax (90-212) 244-2323, www .galataresidence.com. The hotel is in the city's oldest apartment building -- dating from the late 19th century -- and has 15 sparkling two-bedroom apartments, with a living room and full kitchen, for $100 a day.
Luxury: The Four Seasons Hotel, 1 Tevkihane Street, Sultanahmet, (90-212) 638-8200, fax (90-212) 638-8210, www.fourseasons.com, has 65 elegantly understated rooms in a renovated, century-old prison. A short walk from Sultanahmet's monuments, the hotel is an oasis of personal service, including spa treatments; the staff prides itself on knowing each guest by name. Summer rates are well below last year's: a standard double is $250 and a deluxe double, with balcony and view of the sea or Haghia Sophia, is $360.

Across town, directly on the Bosporus, is the opulent Ciragan Palace Kempinski, 32 Ciragan Caddesi, Besikstas, (800) 426-3135, (90-212) 258-3377, fax (90-212) 259-6687, Web site www.ciragan-palace.com. The Ciragan (pronounced chir-HAN) is actually two connected hotels -- a restored 19th-century palace that was one of the last homes of the sultans and a newer hotel built and decorated in similar style. The hotel takes full advantage of its location, with two pools, gardens and terraces on the Bosporus. Prices for the 315 rooms have not dropped; a standard double is $320, a superior with sea view is $430.

Where to Eat

When the hustle of Istanbul gets to you, Korfez Restaurant, 78 Korfez Caddesi, (90-216) 413-4314, fax (90-216) 413-4306, offers a respite. Tucked into an inlet on the Asian side of the Bosporus, it is best reached by a free shuttle boat from the dock near Rumeli Hisari fortress. The salt-encrusted sea bass may be the best fish dish in town, and the Turkish appetizers -- mezes -- are unusual and refined. Reservations are required; ask for a waterside table. Dinner for two with wine, $65 to $80. Open for lunch and dinner daily, except dinner only on Monday.

Chefs is a more inventive, hipper place, especially in its new summer location in Park Orman, Buyukdere Caddesi, Maslak, (90-212) 328-2000, fax (90-212) 328-2038. The two chefs who run it, Mike Norman, a South African, and Marco Anzani, an Italian, transform traditional Turkish ingredients into dishes like sea bass wrapped in potato and risotto with seasonal vegetables. Mezes come in tiny bowls so diners can sample many. Dinner for two with wine is $50 to $65. Lunch and dinner daily, except dinner only Sunday.

Despite its tourist attractions, Sultanahmet has few good restaurants. One is Balikci Sabahattin, Armada Hotel, 1 Seyit Hasan Kuyu Street, (90-212) 458-1824, fax (90-212) 458-1802, where traditional fish dishes, like jumbo shrimp baked in clay pots, are specialties. A meal for two with wine: $45. Lunch and dinner daily.

Sazeli Durum Evi, 76 Mualim Naci Caddesi, in Ortakoy, (90-212) 260-6969, serves outstanding grilled meat in a homey setting for great prices. The best dish is the Sazeli special kebap, a sizzling plate of minced smoked eggplant, grilled meat and cheese. A meal for two is about $8; no alcohol served, and no reservations. Lunch and dinner daily.

The Tarihi Nevizade Meyhaneleri is a collection of traditional restaurants serving mezes, fish, meat and raki, the national drink. They are off Istiklal, behind the Cicek Pasaji, or Flower Passage; finding them is half the fun, as you pass stands of fresh fish, vegetables and spices. Prices and quality are pretty uniform, though Demgah, 18 Nevizade Street, (90-212) 245-0964, is a cut above. A meal for two with wine or raki, $25; lunch and dinner daily.